Lobuche East Peak Climbing


Lobuje (6,119 m)The dark triangle of its rocky East face rises over the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south ridge. Lobuje has two summits, East (6,119 m) and West (6,145 m), connected by a continuous ridge. There is still a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them meaning they are rarely climbed together.
Many aspiring Everest teams climb Lobuje for acclimatisation as the summit is the same altitude as Camp 1 and it saves making at least one dangerous trip thrh the Khumbu Icefall.
The South East Ridge is the most popular, graded as PD+ on the Alpine Grading system. Teams, most commonly, climb only to a false summit on the summit ridge (after which it becomes progressively narrower and more difficult) but the views from here are anyway already stupendous.

From the high camp the route continues up a series of rocky slabs of increasing steepness to give access to the South-East Ridge proper.  About 50 m from the main ridge the slabs end and there is a 45 degree snow slope to ascend onto the ridge itself.

The start of the ridge is at approximately 5,670 m and this is also a possible site for a second high camp to make the summit day easier. Follow the ridge turning around seracs and ascending the various bumps towards the first summit. There are no real difficulties although there is a feeling of some exposure along the way. Between the first/false summit and the true summit there is a considerable descent which you may need to rappel down before the final 60 m or so.
Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first recorded ascent to Lobuje East on 25 April 1984.
As a guide, this is a more technical climb than more popular trekking peaks such as Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak.

Trip High Light

Trip Duration: 19 days

Trekking Duration: 16 days

Grade: Challenging

Accommodation: Semi Lodge/ or fully Camping

Activities: Trekking - Peak Climbing

Highest Point: Lobuche East Peak (6119m).

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